Sometimes it’s difficult to describe some dishes as having a particular recipe. As with the Ploughman’s Lunch, a firm British favourite, these toasties are more of an assembly job. Still, I’ve never felt that there’s anything wrong with writing about interesting combinations and slightly more gastro versions of classics. Food is as much about ideas as it is about skill and complexity. So, for simplicity I’ll go on describing this ‘assemblage’ as a ‘recipe’. These Ploughman’s Toasties do, after all, make for a rather wonderful lunch, particularly if you’re in a bit of a pickle.