Calls for “a Chinese”, in the western Hemisphere at least, are more often than not accompanied by the demand for spring rolls. In Britain the most frequently heard exclamation on the arrival of a chow mein (other dishes are available) is “we simply must have spring rolls, darling”, or something to that general effect. Indeed, upon seeing these wraps in the background of my previous recipe, noodle broth, a general clamour for the recipe ensued – well, folks, here it is.